We really should mention meeting Bevan, who spotted us on our way to the campsite and immediately decided to befriend us. After pottering about doing our boring stuff we stopped by the house to see him (and his mum, Glenda). Both of them positively exude friendliness from every pore and we had a long chat, a glass of wine, and were given home-bottled olives, a wine guide and a whale poster. Once again the famous South African hospitality!!! Thank you so much, Bevan. We had hit a bit of a low patch and it was lovely to be made so welcome.
Speaking of the low patch - the weather hasn't been helping - but the main problem was the realisation that in spite of all our efforts we cannot make it to the Sudan in time for the cooler weather, without missing too many wonderful things. For a while we felt that our entire enterprise was doomed! However, a bit more planning, poring over maps etc and we decided to go a shorter route (!?) and see what is possible. We may end up having to travel the Sudan in the heat, but the other options mean compromising B's dreamed-of trip, which at this stage he is not prepared to do. The next day brought better spirits and so we continue.
Yesterday could not have been much better. The poor weather subsided for a day and we were able to go on a whale watching boat trip at last. It's still early in the whale season, so we didn't see any very exciting behaviour, but it was wonderful to be so close to the Southern Right Whales as they cruise along or dive and flip their tails up. You can easily see how they were almost exterminated by whalers, as they are completely unbothered by having boats and humans nearby. We followed the same two whales for most of the trip and also saw a couple of ocean-going birds that otherwise I would not have been able to see or identify, as well as two seals who seemed to be throwing fish between them. After the whale cruise we quickly got back on the road for a stop at Stony Point near Betty's Bay, where there is a protected colony of African or jackass penguins. There is a boardwalk to keep visitors from direct contact with the birds, but you come very close to them. In fact they waddle under the board walk itself on their way to and from their nests. We couldn't believe that we were so close to the nests where we could easily see the chicks being fed or preened by their parents. As you've seen on the TV there is a constant stream of adults going to and from the sea to fish and bring food back to the chicks, and the piping begging sounds of the chicks provided the soundtrack to our visit. There were also at least two kinds of cormorant breeding there, and we saw chicks sticking their heads right down the parent's throat to feed. Fascinating. For some people this blog may be beginning to focus a bit too much on details of wildlife, but there you go - that's what we like.
By the time we dragged ourselves away dusk was arriving, so we went to the nearest campsite, which is at Palmiet, near Kleinmond. This campsite has an absolutely fabulous setting, with fynbos giving way to craggy hills on one side and a gorgeous white sandy beach on the other. As it's out of season it's almost empty, which makes it even more tranquil, although a bit spooky when you're in the bath and there is silence all around. S.
PS: we've finally got a good internet connection and have uploaded a stack of new photos - no wifi though, so no videos yet!
Speaking of the low patch - the weather hasn't been helping - but the main problem was the realisation that in spite of all our efforts we cannot make it to the Sudan in time for the cooler weather, without missing too many wonderful things. For a while we felt that our entire enterprise was doomed! However, a bit more planning, poring over maps etc and we decided to go a shorter route (!?) and see what is possible. We may end up having to travel the Sudan in the heat, but the other options mean compromising B's dreamed-of trip, which at this stage he is not prepared to do. The next day brought better spirits and so we continue.
Yesterday could not have been much better. The poor weather subsided for a day and we were able to go on a whale watching boat trip at last. It's still early in the whale season, so we didn't see any very exciting behaviour, but it was wonderful to be so close to the Southern Right Whales as they cruise along or dive and flip their tails up. You can easily see how they were almost exterminated by whalers, as they are completely unbothered by having boats and humans nearby. We followed the same two whales for most of the trip and also saw a couple of ocean-going birds that otherwise I would not have been able to see or identify, as well as two seals who seemed to be throwing fish between them. After the whale cruise we quickly got back on the road for a stop at Stony Point near Betty's Bay, where there is a protected colony of African or jackass penguins. There is a boardwalk to keep visitors from direct contact with the birds, but you come very close to them. In fact they waddle under the board walk itself on their way to and from their nests. We couldn't believe that we were so close to the nests where we could easily see the chicks being fed or preened by their parents. As you've seen on the TV there is a constant stream of adults going to and from the sea to fish and bring food back to the chicks, and the piping begging sounds of the chicks provided the soundtrack to our visit. There were also at least two kinds of cormorant breeding there, and we saw chicks sticking their heads right down the parent's throat to feed. Fascinating. For some people this blog may be beginning to focus a bit too much on details of wildlife, but there you go - that's what we like.
By the time we dragged ourselves away dusk was arriving, so we went to the nearest campsite, which is at Palmiet, near Kleinmond. This campsite has an absolutely fabulous setting, with fynbos giving way to craggy hills on one side and a gorgeous white sandy beach on the other. As it's out of season it's almost empty, which makes it even more tranquil, although a bit spooky when you're in the bath and there is silence all around. S.
PS: we've finally got a good internet connection and have uploaded a stack of new photos - no wifi though, so no videos yet!